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    August 10

    丽江之行琐记(三)

     
          征服珠穆朗玛峰已经不能算是奇迹了,前赴后继者是前赴后继着。但是,据说还没有人真正登上过玉龙雪山的峰顶。当然,这不过是道听途说来的一段是非。是否这样不重要,重要的是它给玉龙雪山又增添了一丝神秘。主要也是因为我并非登山爱好者,真与伪自然也无兴趣纠缠到底。因此,我终究是一个平庸之人,“爬”玉龙雪山之时,我只求看过,上过,最多不过是三千多米处,也是由于下大雨的缘故,我们便又原路返回了。至于“爬”字为什么要加上引号,那是因为我是骑着一匹名叫“玉米”的瘦马上山的。
          “玉米”的确是同行的六七匹马中最瘦弱的,可我骑在上面一点都不害怕。在它嘀嗒嘀嗒缓步前行的时候,我想了一个问题:马是天生被人骑的吗?
          曾经在一本以漫画形式介绍法国人文风情的书里,读到过这样可笑的言论:“什么?韩国人吃狗肉,太可恨了!——那你们还吃牛肉呢!——那是因为牛本来就是用来吃的!”大意如此。若要将此话题上升到生命的高度,这是怎样极具讽刺的无稽之谈哪?
          上玉龙雪山时,每个人都有一个牵马的马夫。他们是各自马匹的主人,算是把搭载游客当作一项营生吧。只不过,在我们所交的185块中,他们至多只拿得到三四十块吧!所以一路走,一路看,在半山腰中简陋的木棚里休息时,马夫们坐在一起喝会茶吃碗米线据说要游客为他买单。我不知道,然后在再次上马之前给了我的马夫10块的辛苦费。一路上都绷着脸不说话的这个纳西族小伙子总算咧嘴灿烂了一下。到了目的地,雨下得让人不舒服了,我提出立马下山,估计这也让他心情好了不少。顺便在回去的路上,他给我说了一句话,小心山上的蚂蝗。本来被冻得指甲发紫的我,顷刻有汗毛倒竖的感觉。
          以后无论去哪,做好充分的调查了解是没错的!

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